How to Stop Your Dog from Nipping and Play Biting – Part 2
Posted by Jeanne on March 15, 2010
Here’s what to do to teach your dog good bite inhibition. Note: this same technique is applicable to older dogs, although the same results may take a little longer to attain.
- When playing with your puppy or dog, you’ll need to choose the level of mouthing that you’re prepared to accept. Some owners are content for their dogs to touch their hands with their teeth, as long as no pressure is exerted; others (particularly those with large, strong-jawed dogs) prefer to get the message across that no tooth-contact is acceptable whatsoever.
- Whenever you reach your level of tolerance with your pup – he might give you a good nip, or he might just grab your fingers gently in his mouth – squeal shrilly and loudly in pain and immediately turn your entire body away from him. Get up and walk a few paces away from him, keeping your face and eyes averted. Don’t speak to him, and don’t touch him. The aim here is for the puppy to be completely socially isolated for the next 20 to 30 seconds – long enough for the lesson to sink in, but not long enough for him to forget what it was that elicited such a response and start playing with something else. (Note: if there are other people present, you’ll need to ensure that they mimic your behavior here – don’t allow them to start playing with or otherwise paying attention to the puppy or dog, or else all your good work will have been undone).
- Most young dogs, and some older ones, seem to have an innate need to chew something – anything! – whenever they’re being played with or petted. To keep the focus off your hands and prevent him from learning what a delightful chew toy your fingers make, supply him with a more appropriate chew: anything with a slight give to it should do the trick. Rawhide bones, pigs’ ears, squeezy rubber toys, or other toy
- If he should start snapping for your hands or face while playing, correct him quickly with a sharp, “No!”, or “AH-ah-aaah!” He should stop, startled. As soon as he stops, praise him (you’re praising the stopping, not the original behavior – don’t be confused by their close proximity) and then quickly redirect his attention to an appropriate chew. When his jaws close around it, praise him again and give him a pat.
- Never use physical force to correct your dog for inappropriate chewing or mouthing. Not only is it mostly unnecessary, but in most cases it will actually encourage further nipping and biting. The cold-shoulder technique (as outlined above) is the most effective, and humane, manner of conveying your displeasure to your dog. He wants to please you: he just has to figure out how to do so. He has a much better chance of doing so if you refrain from corporal punishment and give him 30 seconds of isolation instead.
- If your dog’s getting really revved up and is making repeated attempts to nip you, despite cold-shouldering him, he might need to cool down a bit. In this case, the ‘time out’ method is appropriate: take him to his crate
- For a dog that needs little encouragement to become overexcited and mouthy (high-energy herding breeds in particular are prone to this), choose non-contact play whenever feasible. Frisbee and fetch are great choices; even tug-of-war, provided your dog knows a reliable ‘drop it’ command, is suitable. Avoid rough play like slap-boxing (where you hit the sides of a dog’s face gently with open palms) and full-on wrestling at all costs: these games encourage nipping, but also call a dog’s instinctive aggression into the mix, which is something to be avoided. Keep games friendly and low-key instead.
